First, decide which board you want
This decides whether you can keep the meat.
- Base layout or base plus head feathers: you can breast the duck out and keep the meat. Leave the wings, tail, and head attached to the carcass.
- Any board with the body background: the background is built from the duck's own body feathers, so I need the whole duck, frozen and uncut.
Not sure yet? Keep the bird whole and message me before you clean it. A whole duck gets a $50 cleaning fee, and it keeps every option open.
In the field
- Handle the bird by the feet or the head, not by squeezing the body. Smooth the feathers back into place.
- Wipe off blood with a dry paper towel and keep the bird as clean and dry as you can.
- Don't stuff it in a game bag with a pile of other birds. Lay it flat or carry it on a strap.
Freezing it
- Put a paper towel in the beak.
- Tuck the head under a wing, or lay it flat against the body.
- Seal the duck in a heavy-duty zip-top bag, then seal that inside a second one.
- Get it into the freezer as soon after the hunt as you can and let it freeze solid.
A properly frozen duck keeps well, so you don't have to rush. Freeze it right and ship it when you've booked your slot.
Shipping it
- Message me first to settle the layout. A $200 deposit holds your build slot, and I'll send you the shipping address.
- Pack the bagged, frozen duck in a styrofoam cooler and put the cooler inside a cardboard box. No loose ice.
- Include your waterfowl taxidermy tag in the box.
- Ship it UPS or FedEx overnight. Two-day is fine if you're close to Billings.
Local to Billings? You can drop it off instead.
What it costs
Flying duck mounts start at $500 and secondaries mounts start at $300, with head and body background feathers as add-ons. Return shipping is included on duck boards. Current turnaround is about 2 months from when your duck arrives. See duck mounts and pricing.